It’s easy to fancy yourself one of Morocco’s 19th-century elite in this grand, white-tile riad, once home to the pasha. Set menus for different budgets feature traditional briouates (spicy dumplings)as well as tagines and couscous. You have the choice of dining on brocade divans in the salon or in the enormous courtyard filled with orange trees, musicians, and the odd belly dancer. This is an experience you’ll remember.